Fashion Has To Face Its Future
Like many of the Fashion weeks, New York went entirely digital this season. Designers presented their collections and shows online through live and pre-recorded media. NYFW was centered around fashion’s global reach and responsibility, and every trend represented the future for brands and retailers. Designers and houses had to reflect on what is most important and find creative solutions to stay relevant without spending infinite amounts of money on traditional shows. This alone has helped the environment drastically.
Prior to the pandemic, Fashion Week was under fire due to its lack of eco-friendly policies. Buyers and brands would fly to four cities for two seasons a year. According to a study conducted by Zero to Market, in 2018, 241,000 tons of CO2 were produced during Fashion Month. That is the equivalent to the annual emissions of a small country. The United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion stated that the apparel industry accounts for 8% to 10% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions. So it makes sense that as COVID-19 worsened and people were mandated to stay home, regions that were most impacted by air pollution started to see clear skies.
Now we have a clear sense of how much CO2 is emitted annually during Fashion Month: brands, collections, and fashionistas moving around the planet result in approximately 241,000 tons, or enough to power Time square for 58 years. Brands and retailers have no choice but to face their impact on our environment.
But Fashion Month is only one aspect of the industry that must change. Since the beginning of the pandemic, consumers have been demanding ethical practices and greener policies. This means that established houses and brands will have to find creative solutions to become more environmentally conscious. These companies should look at sustainable fashion brands for ideas.
Young brands such as Oak & Acorn, SiiZU, and Born Native, are pioneers at the forefront of sustainable fashion and are paving the way for the future of the industry. There is no denying that these companies are going to hit the ongoing road blocks that all sustainable brands have to overcome; however, each of these brands are very much worth paying attention to.
Miko Underwood, Chief Creator & Spokesperson for Oak & Acorn (OA) says that her company is known for its rebellious spirit, and is the first sustainable denim brand in Harlem. OA focuses on sustainability and “Black Indigenous People of Color's contributions to the industry in the Denim Space.”
Fabric is of the utmost importance to SiiZU. The company prides itself on using 100% organic materials in its entire line of clothing. Their talented design and pattern making team maximizes the fabric’s full potential while minimizing waste. In terms of sourcing material, SiiZU intentionally keeps the fabric manufacturers and garment factories in close proximity to one another to reduce the carbon footprint from shipping materials. Their merino wool and cashmere sweaters are all made within Inner Mongolia, and their silk dresses are all manufactured within Suzhou, where the silk is sourced. In the Fall of 2016, the company revamped its packaging process. Instead of using reusable poly bags, they switched to recyclable paper bags. For SiiZU, in the pursuit of eliminating its carbon footprint, every detail matters.
The Brooklyn-based clothing line, Born Native (BN), designs classic pieces that are ethically made and sourced locally. The brand’s handmade flounce-sleeved tops and flowy mini dresses are made from 100% deadstock fabrics. They are known for their thoughtful design, elegance, and comfort. BN’s mission is to eliminate fast fashion through consumer education. The company wants customers to view clothing as long term investments, not only for themselves but also for the planet.
A study of prior global crises and analysis of economic trends and consumer sentiment make it obvious that fashion risks irreparable damage if it ignores sustainability in the face of Covid-19. While sustainability is an extremely challenging obstacle and will take quite some time to master, companies that embrace it will be among the leaders of the revolution of the fashion industry when the pandemic ends.